Exploring Italy’s most refined expressions of
Pinot Nero (Noir) and Chardonnay
Often overshadowed by their Burgundian cousins, Italy’s finest Pinot Nero and Chardonnay wines are graceful, complex and seriously underrated—until now.
“Numerous Italian producers are making Chardonnay that are not only delicious, but are unique and specific to their terroir and to their place in the pantheon of Chardonnay across the globe.”
(Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast)
"Although it’s not an Italian native, Pinot Noir thrives in certain cool-climate spots across the country”
(Walter Spellers, Decanter)
Hosted by Brendan Jansen MW
Taste through 7 chardonnays & 6 Pinot Neros -
from the Volcanic soils of Etna, through the Tuscan Apennine Mountains,
to the alpine areas of Alto-Adije and Valle d’Aosta.
Monday 12 May
Session 4: Chardonnay & Pinot Nero (Noir)
Hosted By Brendan Jansen MW
Masterclass: 6-8pm, 13 Wines with Kate Lamont canapes throughout, $175
(Only 14 seats available - private dining room event)
Gaja Vineyards, Piedmont
Understanding Chardonnay in Italy
Fiano, Grecco, Verdicchio…Chardonnay? One of these may appear out of place when listing iconic Italian grape varieties, but—surprise—Chardonnay, the world’s fifth most planted grape, has a strong historic foothold all along the Italian peninsula. The diversity of Italy’s terroir and climate highlights this neutral white grape’s ability to adapt to its location and produce wines of place—whether the cool-climate slopes of Alto Adige or the sun-soaked hills of Sicily.
Chardonnay’s history in Italy, like many grapes, is a bit fuzzy, but most attribute the grape’s first plantings to Napoleon Bonaparte. Just as the Roman legions brought their most prized vines across Europe, Napoleon’s armies did the same, bringing Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and others to what we now know as Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the late 1700s or early 1800s.
Yet, Chardonnay’s modern-day story is based more on romance and innovation than on war or legacy. There are numerous Italian producers making Chardonnay that are not only delicious, but are unique and specific to their terroir and to their place in the pantheon of Chardonnay across the globe.
Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast
Understanding Italy’s Pinot Nero (Noir)
Pinot Noir is so strongly associated with Burgundy that it may come as a surprise that the fickle grape variety has been cultivated in Italy for more than 150 years. Pinot Noir first arrived in the late 1830s, in South Tyrol, under the auspice of Archduke John of Austria, who had taken a keen interest in the region’s viticultural development. During the same period the grape also entered Sicily, on Etna’s southwest flank, where Barone Felice Spitaleri planted it at up to 1,000m after trialling different altitudes for many years at his Castello Sollicchiata estate, having built 100km of stone terraces to cultivate French varieties, including Pinot Noir.
Nowadays Italy’s best Pinot Noirs are original expressions of the place they are grown without any need to copy Burgundy – and at affordable prices. What Italy’s best Pinot Noirs almost all have in common is a cool-climate and high-altitude site, something already acknowledged 150 years ago by the three noblemen who all planted Pinot Noir in cool or mountainous sites in the hope of emulating Burgundy’s fresh climate.
- Walter Speller, Decanter
Harvesting Pinot Noir in the alpine South Tyrol vineyard owned by Franz Haas.
Meet the hosts…
Master of Wine: Brendan Jansen
Brendan Jansen MW is a specialist medical practitioner, and the development of his expertise in wine began with his involvement in tasting groups with colleagues. His love affair with wine was cemented when he lived in Italy for two years, during which time he developed an affinity for, and in-depth knowledge of, Italian wines. Brendan's passion is for wine education and appreciation, and this has inspired his MW journey. Tastings led by Brendan are fun and informative and involve a deeper exploration of the varieties and regions covered.
The Master of Wine qualification indicates that the title recipient has completed the toughest series of examinations on viticulture, wine making styles and techniques, all wine regions, and all pluses and minuses in the marketing of these wines on planet. Then added to this is the requirement for an extraordinary ability to discern the bouquet & flavour nuances caused by the factors above which indicate the wine’s variety, age, wine making techniques used, regions, quality, hygiene and seasonal variations.
The title MW is the greatest imprimatur or recognition that the wine world can give to its most able students. After 50 years of Master of Wine graduates there are just 2 in Western Australia and perhaps 24 in Australia.
The Wine List
First bracket
2023 Baglio Oro Dei Respiri Chardonnay
Dei Respiri Chardonnay is a balanced, fine, fresh and savory wine, excellent both as an aperitif and as a table wine, to be paired with first and second courses of fish, gourmet appetizers, shellfish or vegetables. An intriguing wine, elegant but able to surprise with its aromatic intensity, dominated by notes of citrus and white peach. Excellent in its organoleptic characteristics, interesting for its excellent quality-price ratio.
Winery Description
Puiatti 2022 Chardonnay
Lovely, concentrated color, citrusy and fruity nose with floral notes. The palate is generous, meaty, mouth-filling.
Winery Description
2022 Lis Neris Chardonnay IGT Friuli
Successful, straightforward interpretation of the French grape variety, the signature of the Pecorari family is also clearly identifiable here. In a medium-bodied style, it convinces with a buoyant lightness and a refined, mineral taste of bananas and tropical fruits. Aromatic complexity also in the finish, yet it never loses its precision and personality. The 8-month yeast storage gives it depth, length and good ageing potential.
Tasting Notes - SUPERIORE.DE
Second Bracket
2022 Isole e Olena Chardonnay Collezione Privata
The Isole e Olena 2022 Chardonnay Collezione Privata is full of spirit and character thanks to a vein of spice and cinnamon that folds into nectarine and poached pear. I love the unabashed intensity of this warm vintage. The acidity is present, and the bouquet is singing strong. That medley of ripe fruit and oak spice pushes over the medium to full-bodied mouthfeel and gives the wine long persistence.
95 points, Rob Parker's Wine Advocate
2022 Marchesi Antinori Cervaro Della Sala IGT
Attractive nose of ripe mangoes, pineapple and grilled lemons with some toasty, nutty notes and hints of smoky minerality. Cardamom and pie crust, too. It’s full-bodied, nervy and juicy, with bright acidity and savory nuances. It’s layered and long and it builds up on the palate, with vibrant, spicy notes of candied ginger, dried lemons and bitter citrus peel. Truly the Montrachet of Italy. Drink or hold.
98 points, James Suckling
2021 Aldo Conterno Langhe Chardonnay Bussiador DOC
A rich and waxy chardonnay, with notes of glazed lemons, mangoes, almonds and honeysuckle. Medium- to full-bodied, textural and creamy with delicious fruit and a mellow, lengthy finish. Drink now.
93 points, James Suckling
2022 Gaia & Rey Langhe Chardonnay
Reticent at first, this Chardonnay needs a few moments to develop in the glass, but as it does, delicate white aromatic flowers lift from the glass, accompanied by the scent of freshly cut, perfectly ripe apples. Notes of apricot, oak spice, and a hint of lemon verbena cream lift from the glass as it opens. Elegant on the palate, the wine has body, but the vibrant acidity provides a clean and focused texture, revealing tart citrus notes of lemon zest and bitter orange that lead to a salty and textured finish.
95 points, Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast
Third Bracket
2022 Elio Ottin Pinot Noir
The Ottin 2021 Vallée d'Aoste Pinot Noir shows a pretty garnet color over a lean-bodied texture. This wine sees one year in oak, mostly barrique, with some large casks. Some 9,000 bottles were made. The bouquet delivers earthy highlights, with freshly tilled soil, dried rose, lavender and a developed floral character. There is some mild fruit in the form of wild strawberry and sweet plum.
92 points, Rob Parker's Wine Advocate
2021 Segni di Langa Pinot Nero 2021
This light and fresh Pinot Noir offers aromas of cranberry and ripe sour cherry that burst out of the bottle. As the wine opens, it discloses notes of dried leaf, herbs and fresh earth. Vibrant on the palate, it has solid core of ripe red fruits that dances rather than weighing you down, making this a fun and easy red.
90 points Wine Enthusiast
2020 Marchesi Antinori Castello della Sala Pinot Nero
With a waft of warm, ripe fruit on the nose, this creamy red delivers a juicy mix of raspberry, plum and wild strawberry flavors, all nicely meshed with savory notes of brambly herbs, fresh earth and mocha. Remains fresh and focused through to the well-spiced finish, thanks to light tannins and bright acidity.
92 points, Wine Spectator
Fourth Bracket
2020 Franz Haas Pinot Nero
Bright red with brightening on the rim. Inviting aromas, raspberry, strawberry and pomegranate, with some light savoury notes. On the palate, a refined acidity, fruity, smooth, classic in the best sense of the word.
91 points, Falstaff
2020 Alois Lageder ‘Krafuss’ Pinot Noir
A certified organic wine with 7,500 bottles released, the 2019 Pinot Noir Krafuss is a fine expression of the Burgundian grape that needs a little extra time to open aromatically. With patience, the wine is generous with wild cherry, rose, sour plum and blue flower. Delicate spices also appear. It is lean in appearance with a medium ruby color, and the mouthfeel follows suit with freshness and fragility. The Krafuss Vineyard is located in the hills of San Michele Appiano and Montagna at 430 to 450 meters in elevation with rocky and clay calcareous soils.
93 points, Rob Parker's Wine Advocate
2020 St Michael Eppan St. Valentin Pinot Noir Riserva DOC
A very attractive and aromatic pinot with fresh cherries, raspberries, dried summer herbs, licorice and crushed stones. Medium-bodied, round and textured on the palate with firm tannins. Juicy and crunchy fruit with some bitter orange undertones at the end. Bright and focused.
94 points, James Suckling