On Monday the 27th of January at 5:00am, the sun had barely risen, but John and Jack, had already hit the road for what was unforgettable 36-hours. They joined The Wine Advocate’s, Erin Larkin, and the trio were set to visit two of Western Australia’s most renowned wineries; Cullen Wines and Leeuwin Estate. Upon arriving in Margaret River, John, Jack and Erin spent the morning (& afternoon) at Cullen Wines with Vanya Cullen and Cullen winemaker, Andy Barrett-Lennard. Vanya put on 55 of Cullen’s best, with the day spent tasting, telling jokes, sharing stories and knowledge will never be forgotten.

Cullen Wines Verticals:
2019-2024 Legacy Sauvignon Blanc
2012-2024 Kevin John Chardonnay
2013-2023 Legacy Series Kevin John Chardonnay
2012-2024 Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon
2012-2024 Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon

Cullen’s - A whole different Kettle of Fish!

There’s a few things we want to touch on here. Firstly, the Diana Madeline 2023 may be the most impressive releases to date and if not, it’s very, very close.
The Kevin John 2024 (not yet bottled), is already sitting up amongst the top of it’s KJ peers, but time will tell if it will surpass the 2021…

Secondly, the consistency in quality, fruit purity, and the restrained power of the KJ & DM were talking points throughout the day. But what became more and more evident throughout the day was the impact that the Legacy & Vanya Series wines were having on the Kevin John & Diana Madeline.

The Kevin John’s - Until this tasting I had a slight bias towards Chardonnay’s from even years in Margaret River, usually having a little more power and fruit density from the likes of “14, “16, “18 and “20. It wasn’t until I looked back through my notes to see my top 6 pointed recent KJ’s looking a little different to what I was expecting. My top 6 are in order of vintage, but are all within a point or two of each other. 2014, 2016, 2018, 2019, 2021, & 2023 - with three of my top pointed six coming from “19, “21, & “23, all showing this racy, worked, layered generosity of fruit, with beautiful minerality & structure… but with a shyness or restraint, a real elegance and class to them.

We believe the Diana Madeline 2022 & 2023 are showing more nuance & complexity, with incredibly fine tannin, still with the typical depth and power we’d expect from Cullen’s, but it feels finessed. The vibrancy and energy of the fruit going hand in hand with it’s density and power. Beautifully balanced, layered, and with great tension and structure throughout with an elegance and finesse that invites and intrigues you. I think the Diana Madeline 2023 will go down as the greatest to date.

Thirdly, the Vanyas & Kevin John Legacy Series, are truly something special and indeed, a whole different kettle of fish.

The 2021 Kevin John Legacy Series Fruit Day & Flower Day Chardonnays, are not just great wines in the context of Margaret River, or even Australia… these are some of the great wines of the world. Without having any knowledge of the other’s tasting notes, JJ & I had both written comments that these wines would go toe to toe with the best of Montrachet (and in my opinion, they’d win).

Thirdly the Vanya Legacy Series Cabernets are stand outs, and not just in the context of this tasting. There are no Cabernets like this in the world. I have never heard terms thrown around with regards to Cabernet like - pinosity & levity. Cullen’s truly achieving something special, these wines show Margaret River’s individuality and are amongst the greatest Cabernet’s in the world. Each different to the last, a true expression of vintage & site

Leeuwin Estate - A Special Moment in WA History

The Art Series wines are known for their quality and longevity, as well as their iconic featured paintings from Australia’s leading artists. The breathtaking greenery and gardens at the estate made for the perfect backdrop for a special moment in WA wine history.

With Erin’s comprehensive report on these remarkable wines set to appear soon for Wine Advocate subscribers, the JJ’s had to resist sharing a sneak peek of their thoughts until next week!